I'll start this blog entry of Julian's and my vacation with this oft-used Muir quote -
IN EVERY WALK WITH NATURE one receives far more than he seeks.
The legacy of this man is everywhere in the Sierra. And rightly so.
But anyways, this was our vacation down to sunny California to backpack in the Sierras.
Except for some dayhikes in Yosemite the three times I've been there (twice while living in LA), I've never hiked in the Sierras and I really wanted to. So off I dragged Julian with me to hike what turned out to be about 25 miles in four days (along with nearly two miles of elevation gain). I just want to mention first and foremost that I am so proud of him - he did absolutely amazing. Seriously. There were a few things I learned on this trip:
1) The most amazing part of the whole trip was watching Julian scramble and play around in the middle of the flippin' Sierras after knowing he had gotten to where we were on his own power with his own strength. Just incredible.
2) The thing that made me most proud was turning around to look behind me and watch him tramping up the trail behind me, full backpack on his back, never complaining and just trucking along. Seriously.
3) Photography is more or less worthless cos being there in either of those two moments cannot be captured by any camera.
So, along that last point - I didn't even shoot a single piece of film. Sure, I did take a bunch of snapshots for memories (like the one above) but that's it. I also came to the realization it's not worth lugging twenty pounds of photo crap to maybe take a picture, so I only took my little Canon point-and-shoot and even left the tripod in the trunk (along with the five grand worth of Mamiya equipment a friend from work let me borrow that never even saw the light of day the entire trip).
This was a trip to be shared with Julian, not to be bothered with trying to take pictures that have a) already been taken and b) much better than I ever would.
And shared we did. We had the most amazing time. So ...
We started out early Saturday morning, our intent to make it to Sacramento for the night (which we did, after a pretty smoky drive through the San Joaquin valley from the Shasta-Trinity fire - enough that we had to stop at K-Mart in Redding to get some Visine cos my contacts were killing me; I eventually just took them out and put on glasses cos the smoke was so bad).
But we made it Sacramento and we ate dinner at some Shari's/Denny's-like restaurant, then went swimming in the pool. It was, um, awfully hot in CA so every hotel we stayed in I had made sure had a pool.
Sunday morning then we were off, down to Stockton and then over CA-41 to Yosemite. Ha, we made a left on 120 after entering the park and left all the RVs and crowds behind working their way into the valley and headed towards Tolumne Meadows for a dayhike to Cathedral Peak. I wish I had planned a little better and made more time (although that would have been mostly impossible cos every day we had except one was booked pretty solid) - so we didn't make it all the way to the lake, and instead scrambled up some huge granite dome where I proceeded to drop my G2 and watched it crash and bounce it's way down the rock. It ended up with a cracked back to the LCD and some pretty good scratches but thankfully was still operational. At some point it's just going to crumble to bits.
Anyways, after that little hike we headed up and over Tioga Pass (perhaps the greatest pass of all mountain passes - via auto - with the one possible exception of Washington Pass here in the North Cascades). Anyways, it was gorgeous cos it was late in the afternoon. I took a picture of Julian up there cos I also have a picture of him up at Washington Pass. We then headed into Mammoth Lakes to opt spending the night at a campground right next to the ranger station (where we had to pick up our permit the next morning) instead of the Motel 6. The importance of that might make sense at the end of this little story.
We had dinner at the Basecamp Cafe which was completely mediocre, but did have exactly what Julian wanted which for some reason was a cheese quesadilla (instead of his usual cheese sandwich, grilled of course). Then we had shakes at the McDonald's and he played on the play stuff there. Whatever, I let him have his fun.
We woke up early on Monday morning and got our permit for our intended hike to Thousand Island Lake via the High Trail (i.e. the PCT) which was 8+ miles. The intent was also then to return via the John Muir Trail (10+ miles) that wrapped around some more lakes before descending back down into the San Joaquin River valley. Um, as was also evident on my plan for our next hike, this was a bit ambitious given the fact I was hiking with an 8-year-old.
So we hopped on the shuttle from the Mammoth ski resort to the trailhead at Agnew Meadows. We got hiking about 11AM and it was
hot as we made our way up the PCT above the forest and into the open. Then the trail just stretched on and on and up and up. Julian was a trooper, but we were definitely not making the same awesome time we normally do. We stopped for lunch at 2:30 at this perfect spot looking across the valley to Banner Peak and Mt. Ritter, along with the entire Ritter Range. Thousand Island Lake looked a ways off, so we decided we'd camp at the first lake we came across (which I knew would be Badger Lakes after about 7 miles). It took us until 5PM to reach the lake, but we made it. Neither one of us really cared whether or not we made it to Thousand Island Lake or not - we were just glad to be able to take off our pack and relax.
The place was so quiet. Not a sound but the bugs. Julian scampered off to climb a 60-foot rock while I set up our camp. When I was finished, I sat down on a rock next to the lake and watched him climbing up some pretty steep stuff across the lake from me. It was so quiet I could actually hear him breathe despite he was a good 1/8th of a mile away. Anyways, the thought came across my mind that someone might have asked me "don't you worry about him climbing stuff like that all by himself?" To which my answer - which struck me as odd - would be quickly "no." The thing that was odd was that seriously I didn't worry about him climbing far across the lake from me because I totally trust him, but I can't trust him to actually remember to brush his teeth or turn off a light on his own. So life-threatening stuff he's fine - but it's the little things he needs to really work on.
But then again I know I'm pretty hard on him. That was one thing I made me promise myself was to not be hard on him this trip. So when he left his nice REI sunglasses on a rock somewhere on the hike out from this lake I didn't get upset, just told him maybe someday he'd learn his lesson cos if he didn't at some point he'll end up losing something that's really important to him (like his frog, Stanley - more on Stanley in a bit).
So anyways, we had a blast that evening just relaxing in the complete silence. I climbed up that rock with him to look out over the Sierras (this was part of the Ansel Adams Wilderness just southeast of Yosemite). We took a self portrait together. He ran around. I smiled to myself watching him marveling at our surroundings. It was pretty perfect.
The next morning then it was time for the hike out, which was long. We caught the shuttle back to the ski resort, then I paid for a couple of climbs up the rock wall where Julian proceeded to walk up an overhanging route and I downed a ton of OJ cos I was sick of water. We then headed out of Mammoth down into the Owens Valley to stay the night in Bishop.
I must say - we hadn't really gotten a dose of the real heat until getting to Bishop. It was probably close to 100º even at 5PM, so we immediately took to the pool before going to the Pizza Factory ("We toss 'em, they're awesome!") for dinner. Not a ton of time to relax, but it was a nice evening. Oh, except for the fact since we don't really use A/C at all in WA I'm totally not used to it and get sick in its presence. And the maids had turned it on to full blast probably after they finished cleaning our room that morning so it was like a refrigerator and I proceeded to instantly get a head cold. This would make for an interesting day to follow ...
In the morning we were up and off to the ranger station in Bishop to pick up our bear canister for our hike into Kearsarge basin in Kings Canyon. When I was planning the trip, I had originally looked at hikes in the park from the west side - but soon realized going up and over Kearsarge Pass was the way to go (much shorter distance and less elevation cos the trailhead was at 9300'). So, to illustrate my point that all my hiking plans for this trip were, um, way too ambitious - this one originally was to hike to Rae Lakes (on a map, it looked like 10 miles - it turned out it would have been close to 12). Then we were going to dayhike into the Sixty Lakes Basin (4 miles), then back to Kearsarge Lakes to camp (another 7 miles from there, so 11 total miles that day). Then back out the 6 miles to the car up and over the pass the next day. Totally doable, but maybe not so much with an 8-year-old with 8-year-old legs (despite being an awesome hiker).
So anyways, I knew full-well before we even left the car at the trailhead we'd only be going to Kearsarge Lakes and plopping ourselves there for two nights before heading back out the same way we came. And I was a little worried our little Tercel (Oliver) wouldn't make it all the way to the trailhead but he did - props to him.
So then off we went, around noon. Up and up. Around 10,500' the A/C-induced cold I had started to compound with the altitude and began to kick my ass. So I was getting slightly dizzy and when I'd stop I'd hear a pounding in my left ear. But Julian, he was just rocking it. I kept asking him if he was getting a headache or if he was dizzy from the altitude but nope. And when I climbed Rainier I got pretty sick at 12,500' (granted, we climbed from Paradise to the summit without stopping so I had gone from sea level to 12,500' eight hours later and up to 14,411' a couple hours after that with no acclimatization) - so I knew my ceiling was around there, which is why I blamed the head cold for why I was getting knackered at 11,000'.
But we made it up to the pass at about 4:30, along with some guy from Indiana who was going to head up to Washington after a stop at Lassen and Crater Lake to do some hiking on Rainier. We wished him a safe journey as he turned and headed back down to his car and we turned and headed into Kings Canyon National Park, down to the lakes 800' below in the Kearsarge basin.
I must say, this was the most spectacular place I have ever been except for The Enchantments at the end of September when the larches are ablaze in yellow. Granite boulders strewn everywhere, with these glacial lakes and jagged granite peaks surrounding us. As John Muir said -
Among the many unlooked-for treasures that are bound up and hidden away in the depths of Sierra solitudes, none more surely charm and surprise than the glacier lakes.
It was just as I imagined, but even better for real being there. Of course, I was totally hammered so I quick set up the tent and downed some Advil and crashed in the tent for half an hour until I started to feel a little bit better. Good enough to get up and walk around a bit, watching Julian play and jump around the rocks. I grabbed the camera and took some shots as the golden hour approached.
Then made some dinner. I must say, this was the first trip I tried dehydrated stuff and we both agreed - it rocked. Seriously. We had lasagna and spaghetti and stroganoff and they were all amazing. Granted, I wouldn't make it for dinner at home - but backpacking it was awesome. Even the über-picky son of mine loved it. So this was Wednesday.
The next morning we woke up early knowing we had the entire day to just relax and lie around and swim in the lakes when we got hot and relax some more. I proceeded to toss a pad on the ground next to a creek flowing between lakes and lie down. It was maybe 10AM, and I had the hint of a thought that I would normally be at my office but there I was lying under granite peaks in Kings Canyon under a hot sun just doing absolutely nothing. We had the entire basin to ourselves, so we swam in the lakes in our underwear (which Julian thought was really funny) and climbed back onto warm granite rocks to dry off. It was totally awesome. Best day ever.
Then it clouded over a bit in the afternoon and thundered some, which slightly concerned me since I had made the gamble to leave our rainfly and rain shells back in the trunk - but the rain never materialized and all of a sudden - just at the end of the day - the light came out really intense (I was sort of expecting it to, like Jeff and I had seen in Yosemite).
Then it faded almost as quick as it came, leaving a beautiful wash of light over the basin before completely fading and giving way to the halfway-full moon.
That last shot is a great example of the fact that I didn't even want to carry the tripod I had brought - so I was using this stick as a sort-of monopod (which is why it's, um, a little blurry). Julian was sweet and put two hiking poles and the stick together to make me a real tripod, but it wasn't very mobile so I thanked him and went running off with my stick.
I was up by 6:30 the next morning cos I wanted to be heading back up the pass by 8AM, and quick took a parting shot of the Kearsarge Pinnacles as the sun crested over the 13000' ridgeline to the east -
Then we were off, and made it to the pass by 9:15. Julian had put Stanley in his pack so his head would stick out and he could look around. Stanley went everywhere with us on this trip. Stanley played with Julian at the lakes, in the car, at the hotels - everywhere. It's really pretty adorable. What's weird is he never took to this stuffed frog until about a year ago, and now he's totally attached. I'll miss it when he no longer plays with a stuffed animal, cos that'll mean he's grown up. Or maybe not - I still talk to my car Oliver.
Anywho, on the way down, we flew - and even after talking to a really nice couple with German accents for quite awhile and the guy said he had climbed all over the world and he was 62 and had climbed Whitney on his 60th birthday and they were doting over Julian and telling him how impressed they were with him which obviously made him feel good and they were great - we made it down in just over two hours after we wished each other safe journey. They headed up while we headed down. Oh, and we met another woman clearly in her sixties on her way up to Whitney (from where we met her, it was a 50-mile hike that she was doing solo cos her hiking partner had to bail at the last minute - now that was respectable!) - she was also impressed with Julian and thought it was amazing that he had backpacked all the way to Kearsarge Lakes (she told us she took kids out on trips to get them to experience the outdoors and usually had to entice them along the way).
We finally saw a couple of kids heading up the trail with fishing poles, but we assumed they were only heading for the first lake and not all the way up and over the pass. I told Julian he was the only kid who had done it, and that had done the hike to Badger Lakes (no kids on the PCT). He was gleaming, which he should - he deserved it. I'm totally not one to give saccharine praise, even to my own kid - so when I was doting on him I think it almost embarrassed him. What can I say, though - I was so impressed.
We made it back to the car by 11:30. It was so hazy you couldn't even see the White Mountains across the Owens Valley from the trailhead at Onion Valley. Back in Lone Pine, it was well over 100º and pretty unbearable. We stopped for ice at a gas station where some lame yahoo proceeded to yell at his pregnant wife to keep washing the windshield and that she should wash the whole car while he stood smoking in the shade. It was pretty ridiculous. As I got back in the car I shot off to him that he must be kidding. Then we both had grilled cheese sandwiches for lunch before heading south to cross over the to the west side of the Sierra (we got within less than 2 hours to LA before turning and heading north on CA-99 back up to Visalia for the night).
It was another evening of swimming before going to grab dinner. I told Julian we had to go to In-N-Out Burger which he half-heartedly agreed. He's not a big cheeseburger fan, but apparently In-N-Out has the best burgers (duh) cos after he engulfed the first one he wanted another. Awesome, I was so proud again.
In the morning, I let him swim again until we took off for Sequoia NP around 10:30. We winded our way through the park up to the Giant Forest (named so by Muir) where we got out and walked around. Holy cow, I know we're slightly jaded by huge doug firs and red cedar trees here in WA, but the sequoias were
enormous. It was awesome. I got Julian a souvenir, and bought myself Muir's first book entitled
The Mountains of California. We hiked to the General Sherman tree and stood in awe at the largest living tree. Just amazing stuff.
Then we officially ran out of time, and it was just a matter of getting back home. So it was north then up just past Sacramento to Woodland (after stopping at our last In-N-Out in Modesto cos Julian demanded it again) where I proceeded to the Days Inn to stay the night, but Julian decided the pool was too crowded so he wanted to go somewhere else. Our only other immediate choice was a Motel 6, so it was there we went. Granted, it was already 8:30 and he only had about half an hour to swim. But he did enjoy those thirty minutes, and I enjoyed the fact that the beds had real Motel 6 comforters that had drawings on them that looked like something you would find on a 5-year-old's bed, there was no fridge, no free breakfast, no curved shower bar, the bathroom faucet shot water out of the side when it was turned on, the TV had rotary knobs (OK, just kidding), etc. etc.
So OK, now I can say I've stayed in a Motel 6. I told Julian no more picking out hotels based on how crowded the pool was. He apologized. We both laughed. Then he told me he was sad and didn't want to go back home. I guess I was a little, too.
We were off by 8AM to drive the distance back. It took until 9:30 to get home, after running into traffic in Portland, Chehalis/Centralia, and finally Tacoma. For some reason, I think it should be illegal to have to deal with traffic while on vacation - no matter the circumstances. It just shouldn't happen.
Anyways, we had an awesome trip. It was pretty crazy, with that one lazy Thursday to hang under jagged peaks and swim in lakes all to ourselves in the middle of the eastern Sierras under the CA sun. The pics are just snapshots meant to remember the places we saw, and they'll do that nicely. Julian amazed me. I hope he'll remember for a long, long time lazying and playing under mountains far away from civilization, and take that with him.
I'll certainly remember sharing it with him for a long, long time.